I have trouble turning over my hands, so I thought this would help promote a draw.
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I put the weight in the heel for draw bias (I tend to fade/slice) and the other weight back to assist with launch (I tend to hit the ball low so need help with getting the ball in the air).
I have an outside/ inside swing path. I find that when I set my driver up for a complete draw and aim left of my target, my ball usually goes straight down the middle.
V. Arvoe - Atlanta, GA
After having a terrible time finding fairways with my old SLDR 12-degree, I had to give it up and put my R1 back in play. I tried everything...from all weight in the heel (too much hook and too low loft) to standard (weight slightly inside of middle) which was the easiest to hit. We all know the SLDR was tough, but the R1 still rocked! Hit lots of fairways now...just want to upgrade to the M3 soon to get the distance! Go twist face!
I play the two weights forward as I need a Lot of help lowering my spin. That partnered with the Tensei blue shaft helps me a lot. Still very forgiving setup, impressive.
I had the R1 driver and could really get the ball into the air, then the SLDR which was a lesser spinning driver was a good choice. The R15 improved on its efficiency also but as its predecessors it needed more adjustibiltiy. Finally the M1's hit a home run and now you could really improve your driving ability. The M3 has even more adjustibility which i can't wait to try. I used to set most of my setting to be upright and a little draw. The M1's had many combinations, but the M3 you can really get dialed in with ball flight and shot shape. This is going to be the best driver yet for Taylor Made Golf!!!!!
R15- I have both weights set at maximum draw and the 9.5 degrees loft set up 2 degrees to close the face even more. This corrects a power fade (Slice) and the added loft gets the ball up.